If you make one of these be sure to post a picture of it over on the WoodLogger Facebook Page.  I’d love to see how yours turns out. (pun intended)

Material List

• (1) Toothpick Holder Kit
• (1) 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 6″ Acrylic or Wood Blank

Milling & Assembly

	The toothpick holder kit comes with only a few pieces.  The tube, key-ring, and two caps.  If you’ve turned any “kit type” projects in the past you’ll find this one a snap to put together.
	I cut the blank about 1/8″ longer than the tube with a miter saw. After the cutting the blank I then found the center point on the end of the blank.  I used a center finder, but a ruler will do the job just as quick.  I then drilled a hole using a 7mm drill bit.
	After drilling out the hole for the tube.  I scuffed up the tube with sandpaper.  This is done to help the CA glue that I used to give it something to grab onto.  The CA Glue I used is called stick fast.  Which is appropriately named.
	Next up I headed to the lathe and turned the blank to shape.  I used a bowl gauge and skim until I was happy with the size and shape.  After that, I sanded the toothpick holder and finished it with EEE-Ultra Shine, and Shella Wax.
	The assembly for the toothpick holder was quick and easy.  I used a pen press to help with the assembly for mine.  If you’re considering doing a lot of these kits you may want to invest in one of these.
	The final product turned out great.  This toothpick holder kit was a quick and easy project that can be done in about an hour.

The post Turn a Toothpick Holder appeared first on WoodLogger.

If you make one of these be sure to post a picture of it over on the WoodLogger Facebook Page.  I’d love to see how yours turns out. (pun intended)

Material List

• (1) Pill Holder Kit
• (1) 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 6″ Acrylic or Wood Blank

Milling & Assembly

​

	The pill holder kit comes with only a few pieces.  The tube, key-ring, and two caps.  If you’ve turned any “kit type” projects you’ll find this one a snap to put together.
	I used a miter saw and cut the blank to a length of approx. 1/8″ longer than the tube.
	After the cutting the blank I then found the center point on the end of the blank.  I used a center finder, but a ruler will do the job just as quick.  I then drilled a hole using a 14mm drill bit.
	After drilling out the hole for the tube.  I used a CA glue and let the tube dry for about an hour.
	After the glue finished drying I went back to the drill press and used a barrel trimmer to make sure the blank was flush with the tube.
	Next up I headed to the lathe and turned the blank to shape.  I used a bowl gauge and skim until I was happy with the size and shape.  After that, I sanded the pill holder and finished it with EEE-Ultra Shine, and Shella Wax.
	The assembly for the pill holder was quick and easy.  I used a pen press to help with the assembly for mine.  If you’re considering doing a lot of these kits you may want to invest in one of these.
	The final product turned out great.  This pill holder kit was a quick and easy project that can be done in about an hour.

The post Make a Turned Pill Holder appeared first on WoodLogger.

If you make one of these be sure to post a picture of it over on the WoodLogger Facebook Page.  I’d love to see how yours turns out.

Material List

• (1) Dart Turning Kit
• (1) Acrylic or wood blank at least 7/8″ square and 3″ long.

Milling & Assembly

	I purchased this Dart Turning Kit from Rockler.  It’s available online or if you’re lucky like me, you have a Rockler retail store near you.  The kit is available in either a soft-top or steel tip.  The kit comes with almost everything you need to make three darts.  You will need to provide you’re own turning blank
	To get started with the dart turning kit I struck a line about 1/16″ to 1/8″ longer than the length of the included brass tube.  I then used a miter saw to cut the wood blank to length.
	Next up for your darts I found the center of the acrylic blank on one end.  I used a center finder(nice to have), but you can certainly just use a ruler.  After that I drilled out the center using a 7mm drill bit.
	After the blank is all drilled out; the next thing is to work on the brass tube that will be inserted into the key ring pocket knife.  To get the brass tube ready, first use some sand paper to mar up the smooth brass.  This will help give the glue something to grab onto.  After that I used a medium CA glue and applied it all over the tube.  Be careful as you don’t want to get any glue on the inside of the tube.   Next up I went back to my drill press and used a barrel trimmer on each end of my blank.  You’ll need to make sure the end if flush with the brass tube.  When it comes to assembly it’ll be important that this is flush.
	After the glue has dried, insert the blank using the bushings designed for this kit onto the mandrel.  As the blank is fairly large there isn’t a lot of turning required on this one.  I like to  start with a bowl gauge until the rough edges are gone and then move to a skew. To finish off the blank I worked my way through a set of 5 different sandpapers.  Starting at a grit of 150 and working my way up to 600 grit.  I then applied a coat of EEE Ultra-Shine and then a small amount of ShellaWax.
	For the assembly I used some of the included iron weight to balance the darts and attain a weight of 14 grams.  This is a nice feature of this kit.  You can add as much weight to your darts to attain the weight and feel that you want.     The last step for your darts is to insert the caps for the nose and tail fittings.  I used a pen press to help with mine.  If you’re going to get serious about turning pens or working on kit projects like this, then a pen press is an essential part of this.  I really like the milescraft pen press kit show in the picture.
	After everything is assembled there are three darts that make up the kit.  This really is a fun and easy turning kit to make.  Having the ability to make your darts look, feel, and weigh exactly how want is a great bonus.

The post How to Turn Your Own Darts appeared first on WoodLogger.

Turning a simple cherry wood bowl on the lathe can be both satisfying and surprisingly easy once you master a few basic techniques. For this project, I started with a 5″ x 5″ x 3″ block of cherry wood—a great size for beginners or anyone wanting to work on a compact bowl. Cherry is a wonderful wood to turn; it’s dense but not too hard, allowing for clean cuts and a smooth finish.

The primary tools I used were a bowl gouge and a skew chisel. The bowl gouge is perfect for removing material quickly and shaping the bowl’s profile. For finer cuts, the skew chisel offers excellent control, especially when you’re refining the bowl’s edges or creating details near the rim.

Here are a few extra tips for turning bowls:

• Keep your tools sharp: A sharp gouge makes all the difference, giving you smoother cuts and reducing the need for excessive sanding.
• Watch your speed: Start slow when roughing out the shape and gradually increase the lathe speed as the bowl becomes more balanced.
• Hollowing technique: When hollowing the inside of the bowl, take lighter cuts near the center and use the tool rest to support your hands for better control.
• Check grain direction: Always cut downhill (with the grain) to avoid tear-out, especially on end grain sections.

Once the turning was complete, I sanded the bowl down to a smooth surface, working through progressively finer grits. For the finish, I used a butcher block oil, which really brought out the rich tones of the cherry and will provide lasting protection. The result was a beautiful, durable bowl that will be a long-lasting piece.

If you make one of these be sure to post a picture of it over on the WoodLogger Facebook Page.  I’d love to see how yours turns out.

Material List

• (1) 5″ x 5″ x 3″ Cherry Bowl Blank

Milling & Assembly

	To get started with turning a bowl.  I picked up this block of cherry wood from my local rockler store.  I then found the center of the block by using a ruler and drawing crisscross lines.
	After finding the center point I then used a compass to draw a circle that would give me the outline of my bowl.  This will be used as a guide for removing wood waste..
	Next up I moved to my band-saw and removed as much as possible to make turning my block an easier and faster turn.
	I drilled a starter hole next in the middle of the block to make it easier to insert a wood screw.
	The next step was to load my block on to a worm wood screw that is attached to my talon chuck.  This is fairly easy to screw on if you drill a pilot hole for it.
	To turn my bowl I start by shaping the outside and bottom of the bowl.  I like to use a bowl gouge to start with and then move to a skew.  After shaping and forming the bottom of my bowl I put an indention in the bottom of the bowl that was approximately 1 – 1/2″ in diameter and approximately 5/8″ deep.   After forming the bottom, I flipped the bowl over and secured the bottom to my talon chuck in the indention I made earlier.   I then turned the inside of my bowl.  I used the same technique of a bowl gouge and then a skew.  I also ensured that I didn’t go to deep into the bowl.
	To finish the bowl.  I sanded the outside and in using a turners pack of sandpaper.  I started with a 150 grit paper and worked my way up to 600 grit.   After sanding I used a Butcher Block finish to seal my bowl.  I really like this product it uses a mix of a food safe mineral oil and bees wax.   The bowl turned out beautiful and will be useful for many years.

The post Turn A Basic Bowl appeared first on WoodLogger.

The Key Ring Pocket Knife turning kit from Rockler is a great small project that you can complete in just a couple of hours. The knife features a stainless steel body with an impressively sharp blade. In this post, I’ll walk you through how I turned an acrylic blank and assembled the kit.

A few tips for working with acrylic on the lathe:

• Use sharp, high-quality tools to avoid chipping or cracking the acrylic.
• Keep your lathe speed high, but make light passes to achieve a smooth finish.
• Sand carefully with fine-grit sandpaper and polish to bring out the shine in your final piece.

If you decide to give this project a try, be sure to share a picture on the WoodLogger Facebook Page. I’d love to see how yours turns out!

Material List

• (1) Key Ring Pocket Knife Kit
• (1) Acrylic or wood blank at least 7/8″ square and 3″ long.

Milling & Assembly

	I purchased this pocket knife kit from Rockler.  It’s available online or if your lucky like me you have a rockler retail store near you.
	To get started with the pocket knife key ring I struck a line about 1/16″ to 1/8″ longer than the length of the included brass tube.  I then used a miter saw to cut the acrylic blank to length.
	Next up I found the center of the acrylic blank on one end.  I used a center finder(nice to have), but you can certainly just use a ruler.  After that I drilled out the center using a 19/32″ drill bit.  This is a large drill bit so you’ll want to take this slow to avoid a blow out.  In fact some people like to pre-drill with a smaller bit first clearing out waste, and then working up to a larger bit.
	After the blank is all drilled out; the next thing is to work on the brass tube that will be inserted into the key ring pocket knife.  To get the brass tube ready, first use some sand paper to mar up the smooth brass.  This will help give the glue something to grab onto.  After that I used a medium CA glue and applied it all over the tube.  Be careful as you don’t want to get any glue on the inside of the tube.
	After the glue has dried, insert the blank using the bushings designed for this kit onto the mandrel.  As the blank is fairly large there isn’t a lot of turning required on this one.  I like to  start with a bowl gauge until the rough edges are gone and then move to a skew.
	To finish off the blank I first worked my way through a set of micro mesh sanding pads, and then used a buffer to make it smooth as glass.       The last step for this is to insert the caps into each end.  I used a pen press to help with mine.  If you’re going to get serious about turning pens or working on kit projects like this, then a pen press is an essential part of this.  I really like the minecraft pen press kit show in the picture.
	After everything is assembled there are three pieces (not including the key ring) that make up the kit.  When your not using the knife it stows away very nicely and is protected inside the tube.

The post Turned Key Ring Pocket Knife appeared first on WoodLogger.

If you make one of these be sure to post a picture of it over on the WoodLogger Facebook Page.  I’d love to see how yours turns out. (pun intended)

Material List

• (1) Magnifying Glass Kit
• (1) 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 6″ Acrylic or Wood Blank (I used a green acrylic)

Milling & Assembly

	The magnifying glass kit comes with only a few pieces.  The brass tube, the glass, and two caps(one is for the glass to screw into).  If you’ve turned any kit type projects you’ll find this one a snap to put together.
	To get started I used an acrylic blank.  I chose a funky green color for mine.  I cut this one to a length about 1/8″ longer than the brass tube included in the kit.
	To create a hole for the brass tube insert.  I used a drill bit sized 7mm in length.
	Before I inserted the brass tube I used sand paper to scratch up the brass tube.  This is to help the glue have something to hold onto after it is inserted in the tube.  For the glue I used CA glue.  It is a quick drying cement and holds up very well.
	After gluing up the tube; the next step is to use a barrel trimmer to make the ends flush with the brass tube.  This is an important step; if the ends aren’t flush when you go to assemble your kit it’ll look a little strange.
	Next up you’ll want to turn you blank.  I chose a very simple profile for mine.  This is the fun part of turning blanks as you have an unlimited set of options.  I started by using a bowl gouge, and then switched to a skew.  I left a little thickness in the middle as I wanted a more meaty handle for mine.
	When it came to finishing my turned magnifying glass.  I used a micro mesh kit that has 9 sanding pads.  The pads are color coded and I went from the smallest to highest grit.  These pads are great and can be used over.  Be sure to keep them wet when using, and then just wash them off when you’re done.  Also when you have finished sanding use a soft cloth(not a paper towel it will scratch acrylic) to polish it up.
	When it came to assembly I used a pen press for the caps and simply screwed in the glass on one side.  Again this magnifying glass kit is a great easy project and can be made in just a couple of hours(or less).

The post Turned Magnifying Glass appeared first on WoodLogger.

I found this seam ripper kit at woodcraft.  They’re incredibly easy to make, and they make awesome gifts.  I made this seam ripper for my mom.  I’m also going to make another one for my wife.  If you have any sewers in your family you should consider making one.  I’ll include links at the bottom of this post where you can pick one up.  The wood I chose for the handle was padauck wood.  It’s an excellent turning wood and looks beautiful when it’s finished.  For the finishing I used EEE Ultra-Shine, and a couple of coats of Shella-Wax.  The combination of these two products really gave it a beautiful shine and should hold up for years.

If you make one of these be sure to post a picture of it over on the WoodLogger Facebook Page.  I’d love to see how yours turns out. (pun intended)

Material List

• (1) Seam Ripper Kit
• (1) 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 6″ Wood Blank (I used padauck wood)

Milling & Assembly

	The seam ripper kit available from WoodCraft has a few basic components.  It includes: a brass tube(in this picture it is already inserted in a wood blank), a top and pen clip, four rubber gaskets, blade, blade holder clip, and gold blade handle
	To get started I chose a wood blank made from padauck wood.  It’s a great wood to turn and looks beautiful when it’s finished.  I cut this one to a length about 1/4″ longer than the brass tube included in the kit.
	To create a hole for the brass tube insert.  I used a drill bit sized letter “o”.
	Before I inserted the brass tube I used sand paper to scratch up the brass tube.  This is to help the glue have something to hold onto after it is inserted in the tube.  For the glue I used CA glue.  It is a quick drying cement and holds up very well.
	After gluing up the tube; the next step is to use a barrel trimmer to make the ends flush with the brass tube.  This is an important step; if the ends aren’t flush when you go to assemble your kit it’ll look a little strange.
	Next up you’ll want to turn you blank.  I chose a very simple profile for mine.  This is the fun part of turning blanks as you have an unlimited set of options.  I started by using a bowl gouge, and then using a skew.  I left a little thickness on the ends so when I sand it up there will be some wood left.
	When it came to finishing my seam ripper.  I started by sanding the blank to a 600 grit level.  I used a five grit sanding system to help me with that.Next up I applied a few coats of EEE-Ultra Shine.  This product is fantastic and works really well.  When applying it you’ll apply plenty of pressure so that it melts into the wood.The last step is to use a few drops of Shella-Wax.  This is another great wax product, and is applied by using pressure so that the wax heats up.
	When it came to assembly the first step was to put on the four rubber gaskets on the blade holder.  These gaskets hold the blade holder to the handle and keep it from slipping off.
	The kit comes with a blade and plastic blade holder.For assembly I slipped the blade into the holder and then screwed it into the gold blade holder.
	When inserting the top cap into the blade handle I used a pen press to help out with this.  This could probably be done with a vise or something else, but a pen press works really well.
	The end product turned out great.  This was an easy and fun project to make and can be made in a just a few hours.

Items Used to Finish this

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Material List

• (1) Wood Blank (approx. 3/4″ x 5″)
• (1) Magnetic Pen Kit

Milling & Assembly

	I started by choosing a wood blank and cutting it about 1/8″ longer than the brass tube included with the kit
	I glued the tube into the blank using CA glue.
	Next up I loaded up my mandrel with the blank and guide bushings on each end.  There is a separate set of guide bushings available for this kit.  I then turned the pen to the shape that I liked.  I used a bowl gauge for most of my cuts.
	After turning the blank I sanded it down using 5 grits of sandpaper ending up at 600 grit.  Then I applied a coat of EEE-Ultra shine, followed by a coat of Shellawax.
	The blank turned out beautiful and assembly was a snap.  I completed mine by using a pen press for the end caps, and then simply screwed the cap into the telescoping magnet arm.
	The completed pen is compact when all together.  The cocobolo wood looks beautiful, and this one turned out beautiful.

The post Turned Magnetic Pickup Pen appeared first on WoodLogger.

I’ve had my eye on making one of these for a while, and when I found this turned ice cream scoop kit at a reasonable price, I knew it was time to give it a try. The quality really impressed me—it’s made of stainless steel with a nice weight to it, so it feels durable and built to last.

For the handle, they recommend using a hardwood, and I chose cocobolo for mine. Not only does cocobolo turn beautifully on the lathe, but after sanding and finishing, it really stands out with its rich color and grain.

A few tips for turning handles like this:

• When working with hardwoods like cocobolo, make sure your tools are sharp to prevent tear-out and ensure a smooth finish.
• Use a slow and steady approach while shaping the handle, especially near the ends where it can be easy to overcut.
• Finish with fine-grit sandpaper to bring out the natural luster of the wood, and apply a durable finish like CA glue or polyurethane to protect it from moisture and wear.

If you’re into woodturning or just looking for a fun project, this ice cream scoop kit is worth checking out. The final product is not only practical but also a beautiful piece that will last for years.

If you make one of these be sure to post a picture of it over on the WoodLogger Facebook Page.  I’d love to see how yours turns out. (pun intended)

Material List

• (1) Ice Cream Scoop Kit
• (1) 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 6″ Wood Blank (I used cocobolo)

Milling & Assembly

	To get started on my Ice Cream Scoop I first picked a wood blank.  I chose cocobolo wood for mine.  The kit only has two parts the scoop and a decorative ferule ring that goes around the end.
	The next step was to find the center point on one of the wood blank.  I simply used a ruler to find the center point.  I used a 3/8″ brad point bit for the hole and I went in a little over 1 inch.
	Next up I loaded the blank on my lathe and turned it till I had the look I wanted.  After that I sanded it using 5 grits of sand paper ending up with a 600 grit paper.  For the finish I used a food safe finish called salad bowl finish.  I’ve used that finish before in the past and have had good luck with it.
	To finish up the ice cream scoop I applied a thick coating of CA glue to the stem of the scoop and also to the ferule ring.

The post Turned Ice Cream Scoop appeared first on WoodLogger.

Turning this pencil was a LOT like turning the pen.  So much so that I almost didn’t want to write about it.  However, I had so many questions emailed to me about the pen and the steps I took during assembly; I decided to go ahead and write about the pen’s partner in crime the pencil.  The lathe work is basically identical to what I did for the Slimline Pen.  However, the assembly is slightly different.  Regardless of the differences it’s a super simple project that can be turned and assembled in minutes.  You’ll really get a kick out of having a pen and pencil set when it’s all done.  These also make great gifts that anyone would love to receive.
For this pencil I used used paduk wood.  It looks very clean and beautiful look to it.

I put links at the bottom of this post where you can find some of the items I used to turn this.  I also put together a video of how I made this below.

Materials & Hardware

• (1) SlimLine Pencil Kit
• (1) Pen Blank Paduk

Milling & Assembly

	To start the slimline pencil making process.  I start with selecting a wood blank and cutting it so that I have (2) 2-1/8″ pieces.
	The next step in the process is to find the center points on one end of each piece.  I also like to mark the two pieces so that I can identify the wood grain pattern as I move along the process.  After I find my center points then I drill a hole through the blank using my drill press and a 7mm drill bit.  This is the size needed for the pencil that I’m making.
	After I have my holes all cut, the next step is to move on to gluing a brass insert into each piece.  I start this by roughing up my brass inserts with sand paper.  I used a 60 grit paper.  This is so that the glue has something to grip to.  The glue I used is a CA glue called stick fast.  The name is completely appropriate and it really does stick fast.  You’ll need to work quick after applying it.  To get the tube into the stock I use the end of a plastic pen to do that.  There are special tools available for this, but it’s one of those “nice to have” items.  It’s very important that no glue get into the barrel as it would ruin the pencil blank.
	After I have the brass tubes in my wood blank.  The next thing I need to do is true it up the wood on each end.  I use a barrel trimmer to do that so it’s flush with the brass tube.  After that I load the blanks onto a mandrel(mine is a #2 mandrel) I also use slimline pen guide bushings to separate each end, and then I’m ready to load the mandrel onto the lathe.
	While turning the blank I start with a small bowl gouge getting the blank roughly the size I want it to be.  Then I switch over to a skew.  The skew has a much gentler touch to the wood and I use it to smooth the ends of the blanks.  After the ends are the same width as the guide bushing the majority of the turning work is done.  Next up I start using sand paper to get the blank smoothed out.  I start with a 150 grit and work my way up to a 600 grit paper.
	After sanding is complete then I’m ready to work on waxing the slimline pencil up.  The first step in this is to clean off any saw dust from the sanding.  Next up I start with a product called EEE-Ultra Shine.  It only takes a little and I like to do two coats of this wax buffing off any excess between each coat.  After that I use a product called shella wax.  When applying this product you only need a drop or two.
	The last steps in the slimline pencil process are to assemble all the pieces.  I used a pen press to help with this.  You could certainly get away with using clamps strategically, but the pen press is a big plus.  The pencil kit includes directions on the process, but the basic process is to insert the tip and mechanical pieces into the brass tubes.  It’s a simple thing to complete.

Items I Used to Finish this

   

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